24 April 2012

We depart Hotel Nothofagus

Leaving Nothofagus
Leaving Nothofagus

for the town of El Calafate and the Parque National Los Glaciares (Glaciers National Park). We first stop at the Parque Nacional Bernardo O’Higgins ranger’s station in El Chalten to get a map of the park as a souvenir. The ranger is not just going to give us a map; he wants to give us a little background on the park system because he is so proud of what they have here! He takes 15 short minutes of our time to tell us about it. Argentina’s national parks effort started with Teddy Roosevelt and his visits to this country. He tells us about the other national parks in Argentina and how they compare to Yellowstone in space and grandeur. Bill asks him about an attractive small medal he has on his uniform. It has to do with the Malvinas Islands–you know, the islands in dispute with England. The English call them the Falkland Islands. Howard says later: “Don’t use the “F” word (as in Falkland) around anyone from Argentina! When we left we were really happy that we’d come. The town of El Calafate is bustling! It really is a cute place; wish we could stay more than one night. We have our picnic lunch on the shore of Lago Argentino (Lake Argentina) and spend time looking and photographing water fowl.

Birds on Lago Argentino
Birds on Lago Argentino

There are several dogs that clearly know how to earn treats–they are so friendly and love being petted. The view of Moreno Glacier is our reason for stopping in El Calafate. Several of us need to make a “pit stop” but when we arrive all the facilities are closed. We are told that there are facilities at the end of our journey so we set off. A maze of metal paths and stairs miles long (it seems) with great view points of the huge glacier is before us. Howard and I set off at a rapid pace and for a long time we do not see anyone behind us. Onward and upward! Honestly it seems like the stairs are never ending. I HATE the stair-master at the gym and this is just as bad…or worse because I forgot to bring water. There are choices of several paths and I’m a little worried that we’re getting off course. We stop frequently and take pictures of the massive wall of ice in front of us. It is ice blue and the surface is beautifully jagged.

Petito Moreno Glacier
Petito Moreno Glacier

And we see the glacier calving!! Enormous pieces of ice break off and fall into the water with incredible booms of noise and water turbulence. After I’ve climbed the equivalent of Mount Everest, I rest and Karen and Bill catch up. There is a “community” need for a restroom. Howard sets out to find “the way.” I wait for what seems like hours (do you think I’m exaggerating??) when he finally returns and assures me that he did not dawdle and he has found the destination that we have been praying for. Up we all go onto more and more levels but before we wet ourselves we do reach the toilets. And miraculously as I exit the facilities I see Jonathan. We are saved! As other people in our party wander in guess who’s “lost”? But I don’t care. We buy beers and potato chips (and Jonathan augments with other snacks) and we sit on the deck sunbathing until that idiot, Scott, is found. We then are off to our hotel: Casa de Los Grillos, house of grasshoppers. Our hosts are very nice people and the accommodations are homey. Mari Ann and Rex actually found some glacier ice on the earlier trek and they have brought it “home” in the cooler. Our hosts have a local-made vodka that is infused with the essence of a local herb.

Karen & Bill with the glacier cooled vodka
Karen, Bill & Rex with the glacier cooled vodka

We have it on glacier ice. It was great! I think the herb flavor really was the secret. As we’re unpacking I find we have even more men’s underwear then we should!! A size comparison indicates that we have two more pairs of Ben’s underwear. As I had feared earlier, Howard has worn one pair. If they had been white I would have bleached them before returning them. But they’re black. So I set out to wash them as thoroughly as I can in the sink. Dinner is at Rick’s in the bustling downtown area. This is a serious Argentine BBQ place. There is no ambiance–just BBQ flames, bright lighting, cafeteria side-dishes and MEAT (it’s a screaming meat place). They bring us platters of meat–some cuts are unrecognizable. There is beef, lamb, chorizo, blood sausage, and chicken. You want to make sure you got the cut you’re after. It’s a disaster to get blood sausage if you are not intending to eat such an item. After dinner we find a nice artisan alley with locally made items. We’ve wanted a mate cup and straw as a souvenir (to drink the local Yerba mate tea). We find one with a nice motif; now we need to “cure” it.

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