1 May — Pézenas

Hurray hurray, it’s the first of May–A holiday that honors both the workers in France & Lilies of the Valley

Marie starts the day by giving us a beautiful little pot of Lilies of the Valley. My grandmother had beds of that lovely flower; it reminds me of her. The flowers are so fragrant! What a thoughtful gesture!

Marie asks if Toby is deaf because he ignores her when she calls him. HA! I look up “disobedient” in the English/French dictionary and show it to her. She can’t believe he would be that way. I say “Believe it!”

We take off for a relaxing day in Pézenas. Along the way there are MANY people along the road selling Lilies of the Valley and we later find out that the flowers are exchanged by loved ones.

When we reach our usual parking lot it’s virtually empty–we usually have to drive around a bit to find a place. Since it’s a holiday I am now worried that nothing will be open. But the town is worth the walk so off we go.

It is a festive day in the old part of the town. There is singing and dancing and lots of people. (Where did they park??) There are more shops open then I have seen any other time we’ve come. We have a nice stroll around the town; enjoy seeing the ancient alleyways; eat some Petits pâtés de Pézenas (small warm sweet/savory pastries); buy gifts for ourselves and others; and, most importantly, find a place for lunch.

We stop by a restaurant that Howard and I enjoyed so many years ago, Les Palmiers

Les Palmiers menu board
Les Palmiers menu board

(the Palms). It is a lovely space: open to the sky between two rustic buildings with several palms giving it its name. The starters include asparagus topped with a poached egg and a side of nicely cooked vegetables and nuts; a soufflé of a local cheese and a small salad; a cold water-cress soup with luscious cooked shrimp on the side; and a timbale of eggplant with warm goat cheese. The main dishes include a HUGE veal steak with puréed peas

Veal at Les Palmiers
Veal at Les Palmiers

and edamame; pork ribs; and a fish dish. Our server is such a nice lady! She tries hard to communicate with us. At one point a man at the next table helps us all with a translation. As we enjoy our wine and meal, we are able to hear the music from the nearby square. Our last course is a choice of passion fruit babas au rhum; apple tart; or cheese.

The four people who order the veal cannot even come close to finishing the meat. It would be a shame to leave it but in France there are no doggie bags. I say in French: The veal was so delicious but so big. Would it be possible to take it home? Our server says “Oui!” and I am so happy that she is so gracious.

I ask for the check because everyone has been treating us to lunch. As she brings it to me she whispers that they cannot accept credit cards. Yikes! Between Howard and me we have just the right amount to cover the bill and leave her a much deserved tip, something you don’t ordinarily do in France unless the service is exceptional.

It is a great holiday outing!

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